Fly Tyer's Bench
Alaskan Fly Patterns Streamer Flies


Here's another one of my favorite king flies. It really isn't anything too unique or special as far as fly patterns go. But, from an effectiveness standpoint... it's a good one. There's something about the contrasting color combination of black and chartreuse that makes it exceptional. (At times of coarse... nothing works all the time.)

The Blacklight and versions of varying color and materials are effective for a wide variety of fish. Hook sizes should be consistent with the fish being pursued. Its relative streamline profile makes it a quick sinker for getting down deep for bottom-hugging salmon.

Black and Chartreuse are both very effective colors independent of each other, but it seems at times, that together they make an irresistible combination.

1. Tail - Black Marabou tips
2. Tail flash - chartreuse crystal flash
3. Under-Body - .020 -.030 lead wrap
4. Body - Black "Cactus Chenille"
5. Hackle - florescent chartreuse saddle hackle
6. Head - plated lead dumbell eyes of varying weight
7. Thread - Black or contrasting color, e.g.  Chartreuse
9. Wire overwrap - copper wire
9. Hook - heavy wire salmon hook of desired size

1 - Thoroughly wrap the hook shank with tying thread from the eye to bend forming a foundation.

2 - Wrap the shank with .020 - .030 lead, then overwrap with tying thread to secure. (amount and size of lead can be varied depending on desired overall weight of the fly)

3 - Tie in dumbbell eyes behind the hook eye. (again... size, shape and style can be varied on desire)

4 - Tie in marabou tips near the hook bend to form a tail extending approximately 1 inch past the bend.

5 - Tie in crystal flash as part of the tail, extending to the same length as the marabou tips.

6 - Tie in a 3 to 4 inch piece of copper wire at the insertion point of the tail. (wire will left extending out the rear and will be used in step 10 to overwrap the body hackle)

7 - Size the saddle hackle then tie in the butt section immediately behind dumbbell eye.

8- Tie in "Cactus Chenille" at the insertion point of the tail, then wrap forward toward the eye completely covering the lead that has been applied to the shank. Upon reaching the dumbbell eyes... use figure 8 wraps to cover the inner portion of the dumbbell, then tie off immediately behind the eye of the hook.

9 - Palmer the hackle rearward, spacing evenly, finishing at the insertion point of the tail.

10 - Using the copper wire at the tail, make 3 to 4 wraps around the hackle tip to secure it to the hookshank. Sparsely wrap the wire forward toward the eye. (the overwrap of wire should be wound forward in the opposite direction of the hackle to cross the hackle spine. (this step holds the hackle down securely and adds a degree of durability, thus preventing the hackle from breaking and unraveling while encountering toothy fish.) The wire should be worked to a point immediately behind the hook eye and tied down with thread.

11- Whip finish. (head cement can be used as an option for added durability)

Pattern tied by Brad Hanson
Photo by B. Hanson 2000

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